The road from Rishikesh to Uttarkashi is 180km and for much of that it follows the Ganges. Along the way are magnificent views of the river’s flood plain and Himalayan foothills.

And although Uttarkashi held little appeal for me, I found riding the quiet, twisty mountain road and the scenery compelling. That said, Samsara in the form of the apple strudel from Rishikesh’s German bakery was never far from mind.

When the road’s good you can thump, thump, thump away into the flow of endless corners, but when it suddenly reverts to rubble and ruts it’s gruelling, hard on your first chakra (muladhara) and very dusty.

Uttarkashi was the furthest extent of this trip, so before turning round, Ganesha and I got close up to the Ganges’. Bathing in Ganga’s waters is meant to wash away past wrongdoings, clear your karmic debt and give you a fresh start. The grief which had me start this pilgrimage, and the roads that’ve paved the way, end here with a refreshing dip.

In mythology, the Ganges’ water brought Ganesha to life

On the way I’ve passed a few games of cricket, one that drew a sizeable crowd, most like this:-

Played on the road, the only flat surface around, with a ball made of rags.

Also having to make do was a lass in a groovy hat who waved me down for a lift.

Here pillions ride side saddle, possibly with a speedy dismount in mind.